So we were curious to see what new owners Young’s had done with the place.
The Victorian pub, which has stood in Fleet Road for more than 150 years, is famed for its large beer garden tucked away out back.
Although it was a rainy night, I peeked outside to see how the space had been reconfigured, with an outside bar and conservatory-style garden room that will come in handy as soon as spring arrives.
The downstairs bar has also had an uplift with fresh paint and wood panelling, giving it a sprucer air than the slightly battered old pub of yore.
But it’s upstairs where the pub chain has really invested – transforming the upper room into a cosy wood panelled living room with leather chairs that can be hired out for private events or used as a bolthole for drinkers enjoying a quiet pint.
The room leads onto a fabulous terrace overlooking the corner site a stone’s throw from the Royal Free Hospital, and once again I can imagine it will be a pleasant spot on a sunny day.
We were here to try out the new menu, which is full of hearty pub classics, but we started with a well shaken froth-topped cocktail from the martini menu, featuring Chambord, vodka and pineapple.
The table next to us were happily tucking into what looked like an epic lasagne for two – and even managed to finish it alongside a fish and chips and a steak.
Our starters were the Stag chicken wings, which were an old favourite of the regulars.
It came with a blue cheese dip and a sour chilli coating that I felt needed a touch of sweetness to offset it.
The cod cheek scampi had a nicely crispy breadcrumb, and a tangy tartare.
Next we tried the juicy smashed burger, which came with melting cheddar and pickles – and rustling fries.
From the rotisserie I enjoyed a generous stuffed porchetta – beautifully soft meat topped with crunchy crackling, it went well with a zesty herby gremolata but was served with chicken fat potatoes that were a shade too fatty for me.
Desserts are equally comforting, from the sticky toffee baked biscuit to a pineapple rum cake.
As you would expect from a pub operator with 280 venues in their stable – the drink offer is extensive and a glass of Jealousy pinot noir went well with the pork, while a half of Guinness was a surprisingly good accompaniment to the pineapple cake.
The Stag is at 67, Fleet Road, Hampstead. thestagnw3.com
